ABS lampor blinkar/fast sken - bromsarna nitar

[JorreK75]

Jag glömde nyckeln i tändningslåset på min K75 häromdagen (-92 års modell, med ABS).
Motorn hade jag stängt av med startknappen på styret så inget lyste.
Batteriladdaren var inkopplad som alltid i garaget.

När jag kom tillbaka efter några dagar blinkade ABS-lampan och lät också som en blinkers.
Inget kunde stänga av den. Varken att starta/köra/bromsa eller försöka med dom förslag jag fått (se svaren nedanför).

När jag trycket på ABS-knappen, som ska hindra lamporna från att blinka, lyser dom med fast som dom ska då - men ingen bromsning eller längre körning släcker ner dom. ABS fungerar inte - båda hjulen låser sig.

Köpt nytt batteri efter detta. Ingen skillnad.
Vad gör man..

[Thomas Stadin]

Det är många som skriver om att ett dåligt batteri kan få ABS att inte fungera som den ska. De har antagligen rätt.
Jag ser ett annat problem med att du behöver ladda hela tiden.
Det går sannolikt en krypström någonstans och när du kör med mc:n måste mc:ns laddsystem kompensera för krypströmmen och ladda mer än normalt. I längden mår inte laddningskomponenterna bra av den extra belastningen som detta innebär.

[JorreK75]

Batteriet är nu bytt som sagt.
Kanske någon vet vad händer om tändningsnyckeln står i ON-läge flera dagar.
Kan det bränna några komponenter t ex ABS-datorn eller dyligt?
Mvh!

[Bror Gårdelöf]

Du verkar ha skapat två identiska trådar(?). Går Du in på den, som ännu inte kommenterats, bör Du kunna ta bort den helt.

Jag brukar stoppa motorn genom att fälla ut sidostödet - vilket dels innebär en funktionskontroll av kontakten ifråga, och dels att kontrollamporna fortsätter att lysa. Därmed påminns man om att även slå av tändningen.

Nu vet jag inte, om Du kan göra samma sak på Din hoj, men om så är fallet, är det värt att prova och göra till en vana.
"Det gäller att hindra sig själv från att göra den dumhet, som man någon gång kommer att göra."

[JorreK75]

Lamporna lyste inte när jag parkade i garaget. Inte blinkade ABS-lampan då heller. Den måste ha satt igång när jag gått in.
Tack för påpekandet om två trådar. Ovan vid spara-funktionen, tryckte två gånger.

[Bror Gårdelöf]

Jäpp! Den har i alla fall försvunnit från min dator.

[Håkan]

Hej.
Här finns lite att läsa om ABS bromsar på tidiga BMW:
OBS att K75/K100 har ABS1.

ABS fauts
ABS faults and resetting
Faults
ABS1
ABS1 was only used on older K bikes. A fault is indicated by the ABS light and the bulb monitor flashing in unison. The bulb monitor will be on continuously until the system has verified operation of both brake switches and both bulb filaments (taillignt and brake light) and then it extinguishes and becomes the second ABS light. The primary ABS light (and the monitor light, once its test is complete) will flash in unison until the bike moves off. If they continue to flash in unison after that, there is a fault. You will probably get a fault #7 upon startup after you have left the battery disconnected for a period of time.
ABS2
ABS2 on the K11 uses the same two lights as ABS1: the ABS light and the bulb monitor light. On Oilheads and K12s, it has two distinct lights of its own. At key-on, the two lights will flash together and continue to do so until the self-test is complete (which doesn't happen until you start to ride away), at which time they extinguish. If the self-test fails, they will begin to flash alternately. The exact moment when the fault happens will help you know what caused it: if it happens before you start the engine it is an item that is tested at power-up. If it fails when you start the engine, it is almost certainly low battery voltage. And if it fails when you ride away, it's probably a modulator or a wheel speed sensor.
Sometimes ABS2 will fault without showing a fault code.
Integral ABS (iABS)
Faults are displayed by use of the GEN and ABS lights. At this time I don't know which are persistent.
Resetting:
(mostly from the IBMWR tech pages)
Resetting ABS1
• Locate the diagnostic connector on the right frame rail, under the seat. Remove it from the blanking plug.
• Insert one end of 20 cm wire into the middle socket of this connector.
• Ground the other end firmly to a metal bolt in the area (and keep grounded).
• Hold the ABS button down as you turn the ignition on. You should see the lights flash together as normal.
• Keep holding the ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The ABS light will stay on solid.
• Release the ABS button.
• Turn off ignition, remove wire.
Resetting ABS2
• Locate the diagnostic connector under the seat. Remove it from the blanking plug.
• Insert one end of 20 cm wire into the middle socket of this connector.
• Ground the other end firmly to a metal bolt in the area (and keep grounded).
• Turn on ignition. You should see the lights flash alternately.
• Hold ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The bottom ABS light will stay on, and the top one off.
• Release the ABS button. If you have successfully reset the ABS, both ABS lights will come on. If you have failed to count to 8, or your ground is not good, the top ABS light will stay off.
• Turn off ignition, remove wire.
Resetting R1150GS ABS2
• Locate the round diagnostic connector on top of the airbox
• With a wire, ground the brown/blue stripe wire (pin #2) and keep it grounded.
• Turn the ignition on
• Hold the ABS button down for about 8 seconds.
• Release the ABS button.
• Turn off the ignition, remove wire.
Note: the K1200, R1200C and R1100S use the same ABS2 units as the 1150GS, but there is no ABS switch to use for the reset procedure. If you can access pin #21 on the ABS unit, you can ground it to achieve the same effect as having the ABS button. Pin #21 will be on the large connector to the ABS unit. This procedure has been successful on an R1100S.
Fault Codes
ABS1 and ABS2 fault codes
Info on diagnosing ABS1 and ABS2 faults is described by Brian Curry in great detail on the IBMWR K-tech pages. In a nutshell, by putting a readout light between the ABS pin and ground you can get a blink code when the bike is on. All codes except 5 seem to be persistent (needing reset by this procedure). There is also a BMW document, part 01 71 9 798 811 (5/90), that you may be able to locate which is for troubleshooting ABS.
• 1. front pressure modulator
• 2. rear pressure modulator
• 3. front wheel speed sensor
• 4. rear wheel speed sensor
• 5. battery voltage too low
• 6. ABS relay
• 7. ABS control unit
• 8. sensor gap front or rear, or other outsude influence
• 9. <unknown, but seems to exist>
• 16. reportedly "Failed plunger test" (also seems to be persistent)
iABS fault codes
These should be listed on a sticker supplied with the bike.
• Gen OFF, ABS ON = Only residual braking in both circuits.
• Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 1Hz = ABS not available. Pull-away test not completed.
• Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 4Hz = Only residual braking function available in both circuits.
• Gen ON, ABS off = rear light/brake light defective.
• Gen ON, ABS flashes at 1 Hz = At least one brake circuit without ABS.
• Gen ON, ABS flashes at 4Hz =At least one brake circuit in residual braking function mode.
• Gen AND ABS flashing alternately at 1Hz = Fluid level in Intergral ABS too low.Low-voltage
ABS2 differences between models
The same basic ABS2 control unit is used on the K1100 and nearly all 5-speed R1100 models. There was an early version that might have only been used on the R1100RS, then the same unit is used on all ABS2 bikes until Motronic 2.4. The only difference seems to be in the wiring; according to my diagram different bikes have different combinations of pins 9, 10, 22 and 23 grounded. Each unit also has a coding number that supposedly can be read out from the center pin (like the fault codes) when the key is on and the ABS button is pushed (although I cannot get this to happen on my R11RS or R11GS):
Model Coding Pin 9 Pin 22 Pin 10 Pin 23
+8 +4 +2 +1
R1100R, R850R 12 X X
R1100RT 8 X
R1100GS 4 X
R1100RS (93, 94) 2 X
R1100RS (95-) 1 X
K1100LT 11 X X X
K1100RS 7 X X X
This coding might only apply to the 34 51 2 331 935 ABS unit. Other units can be damaged or will not respond to the recoding.
• 34 51 2 306 300 - early model. Might NOT be usable on bikes other than the R11RS! Superseded by...
• 34 51 2 331 935 - R11RS, R11RT, R11R, R850R, R11GS, K11RS, K11LT (MA2.2)
• 34 51 2 325 868 - Remanufactured version of 2 331 935
• 34 51 2 331 637 - R11S, K12RS, R1150GS, R1200C (MA2.4)
• 34 51 2 333 232 -K12LT
To disable ABS on the R1100GS, you hold the ABS button down whilst turning the ignition on. This should leave one ABS light lit, which will flash as you ride. By altering the wiring harness, one might be able to make the ABS selectable on the other R1100 models.
Fault code 5: low battery
Low voltage has been blamed for ABS faults on a number of bikes, and those bikes have been fixed by going to a different battery, usually a sealed one. Sealed batteries have significantly higher voltage due to the chemical differences, usually about 12.85 to 12.95, instead of the 12.60 to 12.80 typical of flooded designs. For a bit more insight into this you might want to check out my article explaining a bit about the chemistry. BMW batteries often (in my experience) have quite low voltage. This might be a carry-over from the days of the airheads, where cranking current was vital, but voltage wasn't. As you go to higher voltages, the cranking performance can suffer a bit, especially at low temperatures. More importantly, they are harder to recharge - an important point for most airheads. I have seen Mareg (BMW) batteries on properly functioning bikes at 12.40 volts and lower, fully charged, engine off - well below what is considered (I think by BMW) to be the minimum for good ABS operation. Dealers get the electrolyte for the batteries locally - not from BMW - so this aspect of the battery is not really BMW-controlled. Different dealers could be using different strengths of electrolyte. The article explains how this affects voltage. If your fully charged battery is at too low a voltage due to weak acid being used to fill it, you MAY be able to successfully raise the voltage by use of fresh electrolyte. Theory only! A way to do this would be to fully charge the battery, discharge it to a point where the electrolyte specific gravity is about .030 below the new electrolyte you have, then empty it and quickly refill with the new stuff. This will give you maybe a .020 increase in gravity and a 0.2 volt improvement. Don't shoot for anything higher than 1.285 or so. Remember, for a 12V battery the voltage is roughly ten times the acid gravity. 1.260 S.G. gives you around 12.60V. And don't let the battery stand without acid in it. If your problem is that the voltage drops too much when the key goes on, then the above IS NOT your problem. You probably want a stronger, or newer, battery. The success of the new sealed batteries in this area is largely due to the fact that the voltage doesn't drop as much while cranking, rather than simply higher overall voltage. This is a function of plate area, etc... read the article.
ABS readout light
You can make a simple readout light with a 2mA LED and a 1200-Ohm resistor in seies. Radio Shack also sells 12V LEDs such as 276-011B which work well all by themselves. Don't try to use an incandescent light bulb (a common test lamp) because it will draw too much current

[Håkan]

Några övriga kommentarer (förutom texten jag la in i förra inlägget)...

Jag tror inte detta felet har uppkommit för att du glömde tändningsnyckeln kvar i låset.
Däremot kanske batteriet laddades ur så mycket att ABS självdiagnos som görs när tändning slås på fallerade.
Byt batteri som första steg.

Det är viktigt att glödlampan är hel i bakljus/bromsljus.
Fungerar båda bromsljus kontakterna?

Var det länge sedan bromsvätskan byttes ut?
Gammal bromsvätska kan få ABS enheter att kärva.

[JorreK75]

Oj det var en del att bita i - TACK!
Har testat återställning i långa texten, ingen effekt än.
Har dock sett att det finns vissa varianter på hur man gör återställningen.
Ska testa alla - och kika extra på bromskontakten.
Tack för tipset.
(Bromsoljan tror jag mindre på, eftersom det här kommit så plötsligt och påtagligt efter "el-påslaget" i flera dagar.

[JorreK75]

Har följt denna film:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsrrpbb4kJc&sns=em
Men ingen skillnad.
Någon som testat samma sak och lyckats bättre?

Tilläggas kan att diagnoskontakten på min K75 har två avklippta trådar (av tre) - förmodligen gjort när polisutrustningen plockades av.

Men den man ska använda (jorda) enligt beskrivningen är kvar så det borde väl inte behövas.
Finns det någon polis-mcägare som vet mer?

[JorreK75]

Senaste fyndet på webben är detta som visar exakt hur min cykel beter sig just nu när man bara vrider på tändningsnyckeln.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_YkQ9rhOzM

Men killen som lagt upp filmen verkar inte ha nån lycka heller. Glömmer visst att stänga av kameran i mitten också...
Mvh

[JorreK75]

ABS:en går igen, dvs varningslamporna slocknar som dom ska.
Tack vare en specialist på K75 med en dator uppkopplad mot styrenheten som han på det sättet nolllställde.
1000 kr inkl moms.